Shark Rod and Reel Info
As I frequent some of the fishing forums, there always seems to be the angler out there that is asking for some guidance on rod, reel and line choices... for shark fishing.
Now, I am by no means the authority on what rod, reel and line combo to purchase. I can only tell you what combos in general work for me. It really comes down to personal preference and what you feel comfortable with. It also helps to know the limitations of a particular rod, reel, or line and/or rig for that matter.
Shark Rods
In general, a good shark rod should be at least 5 feet, but no more than 9 feet in length. The longer the length, the more you can fight the shark, but, the flipside of that is the longer the rod, the less leverage you have on it. I find that a 5-7 foot heavy action rod is usually in order. The guides on the rod should be at least hooded if not roller guides. Roller guides are probably the best as they provide the least amount of abrasion to the line when under tension.
Rod Butt
This refers to the section of rod below the reel seat usually with a foam, cork or smooth grip. On a shark rod, the butt is considerably shorter than a casting rod. It should be no longer than 16" to the reel seat and should be gimbled to fit into the fighting belt. Smooth butts are preferable to foam or cork, as they are much easier to pull out of a rod holder while under tension. A straight butt is also preferred over a curved butt.
Foregrip
This refers to the section of rod above the reel seat usually with a foam or cork grip and extends almost to the first (largest) eye or roller. On a shark rod, the fore grip is considerably longer than a casting rod. The longer the better as it will let you "choke up" on the rod to get better leverage during a fight. During the fight, one hand should be at the top of the foregrip and the other on the reel handle.
Line/Lure Rating
The line/lure weight rating is usually printed on the rod just above the foregrip. It should be @ 60-130lb. This states what the rod is designed to handle and what is recommended by the manufacturer. Although sometimes this can be misleading depending on what the rod is made of.
Rod Types
For Shark fishing, the rod types and characteristics are pretty much the same as the casting rods. So instead of having you read it over again, I will simply say please refer to the Surf Rod Section on rod types.
Shark Reels
Reels are the second part of your combo. A good heavy duty shark reel should be at least a 6/0 (six ought) and can go all the way up to a 19/0 in the Penn Senator series depending on your budget and preference. Most of the reels used for shark are referred to as trolling reels but as opposed to an /0 rating, some are classified by the line they can hold. Typically they will be based on 800-100 yds of what # test line the reel will hold. So a 30 class reel should be able to hold @800-1000yds of 30# test mono, an 80 class, 800-1000yds of 80# mono and so on. They go up to a 130 class reel which is around the same size and capacity as a 19/0 reel.
There is another big advantage to using trolling reels for big sharks and that is some are built with a 2 speed retrieve. The high speed (3.5 to 1) is for taking in a lot of line quickly. While the low speed (1.5 to 1) is for cranking power to put pressure on the fish.
On trolling reels the line capacity is determined mostly by the reel size. There is one rule of thumb though, the larger the # test, the lower the capacity on any given reel. Line test size should be determined based on reel size (capacity), the fish targeted and again preference.
This is where braided lines really give you the advantage. The diameter is much smaller than mono so any given reel will hold @ 3 times as much braid as it will mono. So for a 130 class reel that will hold @ 1000 yds of 130# mono, the same reel will hold @3000 yds of braid. This is very advantageous in case the shark makes a long run, you have 3 times as much line to pay out.
Another aspect to look at in shark fishing, is the reel constuction mateials. There are basically 2 materials used in the frame and sideplates, composite plastic (bakelite) and aluminum. While the composite is much lighter, it does not provide the strength and heat resistance that aluminum does. The machined aluminum will take much more torque, wear and tear and will not melt under severe drag conditions like composites can.
As far as spinning reels for sharks, most do not use them for that application.
These reels can be very expensive and will be used in exclusively salt water, so reel cleaning and maintenance is a must. Salt is the biggest enemy of any reel or rod for that matter. It will eat, pit, corrode and otherwise over time destroy any reel. Rinsing off your rods and reels with fresh water and frequent oiling after use in salt water is the best defense against salt deterioration. If your reel was submersed in salt water, then a complete tear down, cleaning and re-greasing is in order. Consult your exploded reel diagram for help when tearing down or repairing a reel. If you don't have the paperwork that came with the reel, then google the reel make and model and you should find one.
Which Reel?!?
When choosing a any reel, you want to take several things into account; most important is what size line you will be using. Other things like target species, line capacity, drag size, reel weight, what the reel is made of (plastic, graphite, aluminum, stainless steel...etc.) and price tag are all factors that can affect your reel choice.
Most reels (spinning or casting) have printed on them somewhere the recommended line weight and corresponding spool capacity for that line weight. There is usually a range of 3 line weights/capacities on any given reel (20/270 25/240 30/200 (#test/yds)). This tells the angler what line sizes the reel was designed to handle and thus what weight class of fish can be easily brought in with it. You can go with any of the line weights but as you can see the heavier the line, the less capacity you have.
If you are targeting a species that is notorious for running, like Bonefish, Jack Crevalle, or Wahoo, then a reel with large capacity, aluminum spool (for braid), excellent drag and SS gears would be the best choice. If, on the other hand, you are a weekend warrior and want to target less aggressive, smaller species then one with medium capacity, aluminum or graphite spool, average drag and regular metal gearing would do just fine.
One thing to keep in mind though, is that just because a reel has a huge price tag, doesn't mean it’s the best reel out there or for your situation. As far as reels go, do your homework, check them out and ask around on the fishing message boards. But be prepared to spend some money if a high-end reel is what you need. I say it like that because there are guys out there that will send a Rolls Royce out to do the work of a Jeep 4X4. The more realistic you are about what your needs are, the more successful you will be in choosing a reel. ,
Trolling Reels
Trolling reels are similar to the casting reels but are much beefier. Just like on a casting reel, the entire spool turns either clockwise to pay out line, or counter-clockwise to reel in. The typical trolling reel has 2 side plates with bars running between them on their perimeter. Some reels have the bars integrated into the side plates (one piece frame) and others have actual bars with screws mounting them to the side plates. The spool sits on a main shaft running slightly offset from the center of the reel. The handle and drag are mounted in one side plate. Handles on some models can be switched for either higher speed or more power during the retrieve. Most trolling reels have a rod clamp, which ensures the reel stays attached to the rod even under great stress.
Reel Drags
All trolling reels have a drag (refers to the mechanical pressure applied to the main reel gear or spool to resist turning and paying out line during a fight). It is a single or stacked set of larger diameter SS washers sandwiched with Teflon or some type of composite discs giving it a good to excellent drag system. The drag is adjustable to achieve higher or lower pressure and is measured in pounds or kilograms. As more pressure is applied, the turning resistance increases and more weight has to be applied to the line in order to turn the spool.
There are 2 drag systems available. The "star" drag and the "lever" drag. Most smaller reels have a star drag while medium to large reels can have a star or lever drag.
The star drag works by turning a "star" shaped rotating wheel between the handle and side plate to increase the pressure or drag gradually and is adjustable during a fight.
The lever drag however has only 2 drag states, "strike" and "full". It is pre-adjusted with a tension knob on the side of the drag. When the lever is down, the reel is in "free spool" (no tension). When the lever is moved up to "strike", the pre-adjusted drag setting is applied to the spool. There is usually a spring-loaded "stop" button at the "strike" drag setting. When pushed in, this stop allows the lever to be pushed to "full" and an increased drag setting is applied. But unlike the adjustable star drag, the lever drag is either "on" or "off". Therefore pre-setting the lever drag spool tension to match the target species is important. Too little tension can result in the fish taking all the line off the reel during an extended run ("spooled"), or too much tension can cause the line to break or possible reel damage to occur. The advantage of using a lever drag reel is that a much higher drag setting can be applied to the spool as opposed to a star drag.
Trolling Reel Types
Trolling reels come in 3 different configurations. The closed top - level wind, the open top - no level wind and the full frame closed top larger trolling reel. The top bar or frame is used for strength and torque resistance.
The first 2 types, closed and open top refers to the reel frame. The closed top has a bar running across the top of the reel, while the open top has no bar. A level wind is a small line gude that travels back and forth on a worm gear at the front of the reel. As you reel in, it keeps the line even (and level) on the spool. Most of the larger reels will not have a level wind so you have to manually move the line back and forth to keep the line level on the spool.
For shark fishing in the surf, casting is not a factor because the baits are carried out to the desired location (usually 200 - 500 yards out or more) using a kayak (yakked), small boat or jet ski. Being that larger sharks are usually targeted, heavier rods (50# class to 130# class) and larger (traditionally trolling) reels (6/0 or larger) are typically used. Reel type and drag system are a matter of choice. The reels can range in size from 6/0 to 19/0 and/or 50# - 130# class lever drag reel. Some may think that using a full-blown 130# class combo in the surf is overkill, but there are sharks out there that have the potential to spool even that combo. It has happened.
Line
From here on, the tutorial is pretty much the same, except that you will be using heavier test lines and braids.
Please refer to the line section on the Surf Rod and Reel Info page.